When In Rome....

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GMI

The eternal city, Rome. There have probably been gays and lesbians here since the beginning of time. Certainly, gay sex has been depicted in Etruscan art dating back before the founding of Rome. And, outside the city, archaeologists have found the remains of a temple where priests worshiped the penis.

Rome is an open museum where works of art, remains, and monuments of past millenniums can be seen by all in the street and plazas. The examples of the Classic, Medieval (Romanesque and Gothic) art are innumerable, as are those from the Renaissance, Baroque and Neoclassic periods when the Popes commissioned the greatest artists of the time.

The atmosphere of Rome is unforgettable, always diverse, romantic and mysterious. It is a magical feeling evoked by the splash of thousand fountains, the slow and silent flow of the Tiber, the long shadow cast by the lights at night, and the scent of old stone in the ruins.

To see Rome, start out with a guided bus tour. That will give you a great overview. Then explore by foot, or rent a motor scooter. Vespas are all over the city, and rentals are cheap.

Despite the odd bout of finger wagging from the Vatican, Italy has long been notably free of anti-gay legislation. In the first half of this century, life was cheap, attitudes were relaxed, and boys were both. Today, Rome can be expensive, and so too the boys.

Some bars charge no entrance fee but oblige you to buy a drink. A growing number of venues ask you to show an Arcigay annual membership card. It's inexpensive and can be bought in any venue that requires you to have it, and gives you admission to many clubs throughout Italy. Some bars, though, still have their own membership cards, valid only in the individual venue and usually costing L3,000.

In most bars, you are given a printed slip on which the barman ticks off what you consume; you pay the total amount on leaving. Be careful not to lose your slip, as you're liable for a stiff penalty if you do.